Come for the Northern Lights, stay for Arctic adventures in Rovaniemi

Looking at the winter landscape in Rovaniemi, the capital of Finnish Lapland, you might think little goes on here during the year’s coldest months. The ground, blanketed in a thick layer of powdery snow, is frozen solid, as are rivers and lakes. The sun doesn’t rise much higher than the horizon, and only for a few hours a day; the cold, stinging air hangs still and crisp, as if holding its breath. But among this elemental landscape, seemingly frozen in time, are pockets of wild thrills.

It’s wise to set aside a few days for outdoor exploration. Temperatures of -30C or below are common and daylight hours don’t extend past the four-hour mark, so advance planning is essential to fit in a couple of activities each day. In winter, life in Rovaniemi is stripped back to basics — it’s a destination that rewards those willing to embrace the extremes.

The Arktikum museum and science centre in Rovaniemi is a good starting point, its long glass corridor stretching out towards the frozen Ounasjoki River, as if connecting the city to the wilderness beyond. Bringing together exhibits on northern European nature, history and culture, it sheds light on everything from the science behind the Northern Lights to the life of the Sámi, the Indigenous people of the Arctic.

Afterwards, head to Apukka Resort, a 15-minute drive from central Rovaniemi, for a buffet of Arctic adventures. First, make friends with Apukka’s huskies on a self-driven, four-mile sledding tour of forest trails, surrounded by snow-laden trees. Certified under the Green Activities programme, the only Nordic sustainability benchmark for tourism, with strict criteria for animal welfare, Apukka takes great care of its pack. There are spacious kennels and yards, dedicated trainers and even regular visits from dog massage therapists. Then, try your hand at ice fishing or snowshoeing across a frozen lake before warming up with lämmin marjamehu, a hot berry juice, or glögi, Finnish mulled wine. If you’ve booked at least one activity, the resort provides snowsuits, snow boots, woollen socks and snow gloves free of charge.

For a gentler ride into the wilderness, pay a visit to Reindeer Manor, a 20-minute drive outside of Rovaniemi. Reindeer herding is an ancient profession in Finnish Lapland, deeply rooted in traditional Sámi culture. Today, around 35% of Finland’s total area is designated for reindeer husbandry, and farms such as Reindeer Manor help manage the semi-wild herds of Lapland. During the visit, you can gain a deeper understanding of the animals and go on a short sleigh ride as well as learn about the local herders’ way of life, including their work to preserve Finland’s reindeer numbers.

Winter brings some of the best chances to see the Northern Lights. Chasing them is best left to experts: Arctic GM specialises in small-group aurora hunts, led by local guides who track solar activity, cloud cover, weather conditions and other factors to determine the best time and place to see the spectacle. Drives can stretch deep into the countryside, far from light pollution, and late into the night. Extra snowsuits and hot drinks are provided — although when the aurora finally appears, its ribbons of light rippling, flickering and dancing across the sky or along the horizon, the cold is quickly forgotten.

After days spent outdoors, warmth becomes a necessity rather than luxury, and in Finland this can only mean one thing: a sauna session. At the Invisible Forest Lodge, hidden within a spruce and pine forest a 15-minute drive outside of the city, the experience is wild and intimate. Visitors alternate between stints in a wooden sauna, with windows looking out to the woods, and bracing plunges into piles of thick snow — a centuries-old Finnish practice to improve blood circulation and resistance to cold temperatures.

Food is another form of comfort, traditionally warm and nourishing. Local favourite Cafe & Bar 21 cooks up hearty Nordic dishes in a relaxed space. Creamy lohikeitto (salmon soup), prepared with dill, root vegetables and generous chunks of fish and served with dark rye bread, is a standout at lunch. Don't miss out freshly baked korvapuusti (cinnamon buns) either.

For something more refined, Roka Street Bistro blends seasonal Lappish ingredients with worldly influences — think pan-seared Arctic char with brown butter and celery three ways, or slow-cooked reindeer steak with mushrooms and lingonberry sauce. Book ahead or come for an early dinner — it’s not unusual to see diners brave an outdoor queue in freezing temperatures.